Wednesday, February 29, 2012— Tough time in Yelapa

Wednesday, February 29, 2012 — Tough time in Yelapa

As usual, time is flying. Kathy and I had three nights together in Vallarta before catching the boat to Yelapa. She arrived Friday in the late afternoon after which we had a nice swim in the warm waters of the Los Arcos pool. Saturday we took our morning swim after early fruit plates from the hotel buffet. I called Jean Pierre to make sure I understood the hours for the Peter Gray Museum and then we engaged a taxi to take us there and wait while we went in to see the lovely exhibit of Zapotec weavings by a group J.P. had assembled to show at this prestigious location. The exhibit was breathtaking and we only lamented that we had not invited the cab driver to join us in our viewing.

Safely back at Playa Los Arcos, we swam, shopped and visited until it was time to take Kathy to Archie's Wok for dinner. She said she thinks it may have been the best dinner she's ever had. No question but that it was wonderful food, very simpatico service, charming music provided by a woman who sang softly, played the harp and flute and occasionally schmoozed with the diners as she came and went. The engaging and skillfully executed paintings that adorn this very artfully appointed, three leveled space, are by a woman Kathy and I met in El Tuito while on a visit (Kathy's first) to the Larochette compound on Sunday. They remind me of Bill McGrail's work in a tropical way but they definitely have their own flavor and work extremely well on this restaurant's walls.

Sunday Kathy and I set out to catch a bus to El Tuito for a posole lunch Yael and JP invited us to. We missed our bus by a couple of minutes, watching it turn the corner while we still had one block to go before reaching the bus stop. After waiting 30 minutes for another bus I decided to hail a taxi and fortunately found "Felipe" who was happy to make the drive into the mountains. We arrived just as Jean Pierre invited the other guests, a group of art students from the university in Vallarta, to a presentation in the studio about tapestry making and concentrating on a discussion of how he and Yael collaborate in their work. A rapt audience hung on his every word and asked very good questions. After Yael discussed her part of their work together, she asked Kathy and me to join her downstairs to finalize the serving plans. Kathy was awestruck by the beauty of their house, studio and grounds that I have traveled to for ten years. I was so happy for her to see why I had been drawn to it for such a long time. After our great meal out on the porch, Yael and I showed Kathy the plaza and neighborhoods that are so dear to me. Just before catching our bus, we enjoyed a quick, chance meeting at the El Tuito home of the painter who did all the great work on Archie's walls.

We returned by bus, but I can't say happily so. The driver didn't look like he could possibly be even 18 years old. The first time he put his foot on the brakes, I shuddered in concert with the brakes. When we hit the down hill areas he seemed to do everything to avoid using the brakes, but was going too fast to shift to lower gears. It soon reminded me of my midnight run from Guadalajara with the driver who was obviously on something and who cut 40 minutes from the trip time. I was sure I wasn't going to survive that nightmare and I began to have similar feelings as we careened down Highway 200 at breakneck speed around marked for caution turns.When the boy who was riding the front window and looking every bit like a 14 year old brother to the infant driver, I knew I wasn't alone in my fears. The look on his face spoke volumes. The rest of the passengers were amazingly stoic. That seems to be the Mexican passenger credo. "Vaya con Dios." After the driver stopped one time, got out and looked over the axels, I knew i had a case. The open door allowed the smell of unhappy brake pads to waft inward. He got back in, continued his way into town and I'm here to tell about it, so what can I say? Should I check for ID before I attempt that trip again? Or take a taxi, or engage a friend ????????

We boarded the Yelapa taxi boat at 11:00 a.m. Monday morning. Much easier than anticipated because the sea was unusually calm. Just as easy at the Yelapa end. Since then we've been swimming and reading and eating. All very enjoyable. We're happily ensconced in #5 and all the waiters in the dining area remember us perfectly and greeted us warmly when we first entered the dining area. They asked about the whole family, especially Elena because of all the origami cranes she made for a baby shower her four years ago. Amazing. Such warm hearted people here ….one and all. Marcos was at our table with his earrings and bracelets and rings as we finished our first meal. I have to wonder if he sits over at his house across the bay with his field glasses waiting for people he knows. He was crushed to hear about Skip and we quickly changed the subject he looked so distraught.

We've taken the names of the three girls who received Elena's cranes before and we plan to send some of her miniature crane earrings to them via Luke at Lagunitas. Hope that works. They are such precious people.

Kathy and I walked up the river several miles, planning to eat at Christina's vegetarian restaurant. It is situated ideally overlooking the river with all it's gorgeous boulders and greenery. But alas, she's closed on Wednesdays. So tomorrow we're thinking we'll go to the village in the morning, climb to the "cascade" (waterfall) and have breakfast there at the top of the trail overlooking the pool under the falls. Then we'll roam through the village and walk up river again in time for lunch at Christina's on the river. Sounds tough, huh? Especially with a little swim before we leave in the exquisite boulder laden pool situated here at Lagunitas, with it's peepholes that look down on the beach and surf. We're just about sure we can handle it. Guess you can tell we're having fun.. — Until Later — Pictures sometime tomorrow —

Much love to all.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012 — Oh, that wifi

From Vallarta with wifi off and on —

Doing this by hand first in my notebook because as is so often the case the last few days, the wifi is DOWN! Or Safari just isn't connecting to it. But I have faith — it shall return — Always seems to eventually.

I'm sitting near an open glass door to my second floor terrace at Playa Los Arcos in Vallarta. My first night here was a huge letdown. A room with one window, only to the outer hall. The next day, before I could begin to complain, the woman at the counter said to me, "I have a room overlooking the pool for you now." "Is it one on this side with a balcony?" "No, it's on the other side." "Frown." "Would you like to see it first?" "Yes, thank you." I had so wanted to get one of the rooms Skip and I had shared. I looked and it was one with the big balcony that we had so often looked over at. I said, "I'll take it." By the next day I realized it was much better to start with a clean slate and this room does that. This morning I thanked the hardworking lady at the desk profusely. This is luxuriously spacious both indoors and on the balcony. I said, "¿Es mas caro?" and she said, "No, it's the same price." A new era has begun at Playa Los Arcos for me.

I've had five good swims already and walked to Hotel Rosita for a Cob salad at the other end of the completely refurbished malacon. The salad wasn't as good as I remembered it. They have closed the street that used to parallel the malacon beyond the river and made the whole thing a walking street, part of the malacon. At my end of the walk, the pier for the boat to Yelapa is nonexistent and being reconstructed with huge pillars rising out of the water. Looks like it will be a long time in the making.

I can't get Safari to connect right now, as I said. So I don't even quite remember where I left off with the blog entries from Oaxaca.

I almost missed my flight from Mexico City to Vallarta because when I looked for my gate assignment, the board told me #75 for that flight. So I walked a long distance with my heavy armful of rugs to the area where gate #75. A very nice young man on his way to Leon France insisted on giving up his seat to me. He was born in Costa Rica, living in France and visiting Mexico City. As the long time layover closed in on 15 minutes before my takeoff time, I got nervous and went to the nearest counter to ask about my flight since I hadn't heard any boarding instructions yet. They told me my gate had been changed to #67. Back to the other end of the huge corridor. Half way there I decided I wasn't going to make it with those bags. I asked for help at an info kiosk and they called a wheel chair with pusher into action. The man motioned for me to sit and I said it was for the bags, not me. So we took off running and made it to that gate just as they were closing it. Whew! I thanked him and gave him the only 40 pesos I had at hand and boarded.

We seemed to take a long time after that before we rolled out to the takeoff runway. The engines roared and we moved a few increasingly fast meters and then came to a complete halt. From that time on until we eventually cruised into the area by the facilities for an engine check, I did not once catch a glimpse of a single flight attendant. They just evaporated until we were once again on the move. It must be rough on them to walk the aisle and get the very same questions thrown at them over and over. Long story short — We took off again with everyone holding his breath and arrived at Puerto Vallarta one hour late.

Primo was right there smiling and greeting me. I was happy to be on terra firma and happy to see that he hadn't given up and left the airport. He didn't seem perturbed at all and we made three quick stops before leaving town for the drive into the mountains and up to El Tuito. Stops: #1 Sams to buy Chaio some flowers, #2 the store where Primo buys his drinking and cooking water and #3 Pemex for gas. Then off we headed along the coast and into the mountains along the river.

It was a lovely feeling to be on that road again and Primo is a good driver so I could relax and enjoy the ride.

Time at El Tuito flew by. There were four thoroughly engaging guests there before me. One had been the very first student Jean Pierre had at the San Francisco Tapestry Workshop many years before. Melanie Berry and her husband Duncan were still up when I arrived. Liked them immediately. Found that among others, we had friend Pam Patrie in common. That old six degrees of separation. the next morning I met Duncan's mother, Win, and David. What a group to set off with the next morning for a trip to Playa Perula via a side trip to a Ricea still at a remote ranch up a nearby river I've always wanted to explore.

Swam at Perula. Delightful! Had a great lunch on the beach at the usual place. Ice cream bars and coconut stops on the way home. Next morning — one sick Duncan. Still don't know exactly what that was caused by. He was up and about but definitely feeling bad when it was time for the cutting off party. Very game for a sick man, I must say. The last I saw of this lively foursome, they were boarding one of the boats for Yelapa the way one used to from and to Yelapa — the hard way — over a fast rising and falling transom in the rear of the boat. I held my breath for them as each hopped up the undependable entry. They they were off and running on their way down the coast.

Backing up just a little bit — After making the preparations for the cutting off party we walked to Mario's for a late lunch. Delicious. Wish Duncan, who bravely came along, could have enjoyed more that his mineral water. He even went along for the quick trip to see Louis and his ceramic setup at the south end of town.

The opening celebration was lovely and Jean Pierre's last minute call to witness drew just the perfect number for an intimate party with old friends. I screeched with joy when Bonny and Pat popped around the corner. They are so dear to me. Suzanna from the Peter Gray Museum and Vicki and Hank answered the call also. A really good time was had by all.

From the dining room at Play Los Arcos I've seen three fantastic sunsets over the last evenings, including the one tonight during which I could swear it included a green flash. Each night I've wondered if they've been glued to the same view from Yelapa that I've been enjoying from here. There's no better place to watch sunsets from than Yelapa. I hope it's been magnificent for them. (I'm getting sleepy and the pictures aren't on yet — maybe just one, so come back and there'll be many more when the gods make their latest wifi decisions.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012 — Leave Oaxaca Manana

Almost ready to leave Oaxaca —

That's probably not really true. I could stay in Oaxaca much longer and still not be ready to leave. This will be a very quick review of the last days as they went by like a flash.

I had my last day at the class on Friday and was treated to lunch by Juanito and his partner at the Organic Market. What a treat. I bought a small pendant from a vendor while I was there. He introduced me to "Piedra fossila" or fossil stone. It is micro fossil embedded stone that looks like abstract mini line drawings on a beige to grey background. Skip would have loved these and I feel a need to collect a few. I'll try to get a decent picture of one soon. My friends escorted me back to the Institute just in time for my last intercambio session. All these "lasts" cast a mixed veil over the day.

Saturday I walked everywhere and tried to see as much as possible. The amazing figures in cement which have been displayed on Calle Alcala since I arrived are still here and I'll talk about them in a few days when I sort through my pictures for the best ones. These are amazing tributes to the many immigrants who have died while trying to cross the border from Mexico to the U.S. They were done by artist Alexandro San Dieto, from 1999 to 2003. There are 2501 of them, each representing one of the known victims. They are arranged in groups, standing in the walking street (Alcala) for several blocks. An incredibly moving public exhibition. I promise to give you some examples in a day or two.

Sunday I was picked up at Las Mariposas by Jacobo Mendoza and taken to his home/Studio in Teotitlan del Valle. I spent several hours there with him and his wife Maria Louise looking at their beautiful work space, talking about their processes and how they feel about their work. Then they each sat at their looms and worked for a few minutes so I could get a few photographs. I bought three more rugs from them; One by Jacobo, one by their son, Jacobito and one by their daughter, Sylvia. How I'm going to get them on the plane tomorrow is another matter. It was a thrill to be with these lovely people and see their beautiful new work space.

Today I squeezed in a tour of the Ethno-Botanical Gardens. What a treasure! I had almost decided to put off going there until next year, but something just compelled me to do it today. I'm so happy that I made the effort. It seems to have been one of the longest tours Carol Turkinin has given there. Two and a half hours of walking in about six acres of wondrous planting representing the Oaxacan botanical history from thousands of years ago to the present time.

I'll post some pictures from the above activities and then must get some sleep before tomorrow's van from the collectivo comes to take me to the airport for my flight, first to Mexico City and then on to Puerto Vallarta. Primo is picking me up in Vallarta and taking me to El Tuito. More from there soon.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012 — Oaxaca — So Good

Oaxaca — What a Heavenly Place

I just can't say enough about how good life is here. My class went well today and Juanito brought me the ultimate "take home" goodie. A pen that is filled with juice acting as the ink. If I understand it correctly, the whole pen can actually be eaten. OK, I had it wrong. You can't eat the pen but you can eat the "paper" you write on (furnished in pack) and the ink, of course. Like swallowing the secret message or clue, or something. Still pretty funny. If I can find another one I'll tell you more later. Only two more days of class before this part of the trip is over. I don't actually leave Oaxaca until next Wednesday and I have a million things I'd still like to see. Can't do it all but I'll make a try. Definitely returning next year. I finally took a picture this morning of the woman from Teotitlan del Valle who wove the rug I bought several weeks ago.

So many good walks through Llano Park going to and from school. There's always something there that touches my heart. People are so genuinely warm and affectionate. Some people are watering their special little areas of garden and others have already come through and made neat little piles of garbage for someone to collect soon after. On my way to school I followed a father and uniformed daughter who crossed the street. The father automatically switched places to be on the outside and then took her hand again. It gave me such a strong sense of deja vu. There was a time when my father or Skip would have done the same thing without really thinking about it but just instinctively following a considerate old custom. Somehow, seeing that gesture down here via a busy father and daughter rushing to get a taxi for her to get to school seemed like something out of yesterday. But it wasn't. It was now. On my way through the park some days I've been watching a teenage couple sitting on a bench having wonderful conversations. When I came back the same way half an hour later today they were still there thoroughly enjoying each others' company, not yet part of the lovy dovy park bench set. But it looks like a deep friendship is developing. I don't think I've mentioned that I keep seeing a dog in the park who looks just like Woofey. Acting just like him too. Another thing I thoroughly enjoy when I walk back in the afternoon is what I call the music fountain. At two adjacent locations at the north end of the park are square metal plates placed on the concrete sidewalk which have holes in them. Music is coming from somewhere and at both locations, water spurts up through the holes in the square plates. I may be wrong but it seems to me that the water only comes up when the music is playing and appears to adjust the strength of the spurting water to agree with how lively or loud the music is. Kids sometimes run through these little jungles of water. It's an ever changing event.

I visited a great little health food store and restaurant called Bamboo that Juanito told me about. When I mentioned his name, the owner lit up like a christmas tree. "Muy divertido, Juanito," she said. Indeed he is. Always doing something thoughtful for someone else. And always so funny. His partner is in a class next door and sometimes he comes to our door to deliver a message or tell us why Juanito will be a little late. I'll be quite sad to be leaving these warm hearted people.

Tonight six of us went to Casa de la Abuela for dinner and to watch a gorgeous gathering down in the street at the far north end of the Zocolo. It's dance night and a huge crowd gathers to watch an equally large group of people do some great dancing. The backdrop of the Cathedral and all the lights from the vendors and streets filled with moving humans heading in all directions made me think of a Bruegal painting, "The Wedding Party." We used to have a print of that hanging on the living room wall when I was growing up. I still love it. The music, the dancing and the whole scene had a well practiced look about it. A very free but stylized event. We had an incredible view from our open window table in the restaurant which is on the second floor.

We walked home through the night market and I bought two blouses with encouragement from my friends and all sorts of yeas and nays regarding the possible choices. Three of us finally tired and had a nice walk home, stopping for some beer for one of the group. Another day in Oaxaca.

Monday, February 6, 2012 — First day of last week here

First day of last week in Spanish class —

Saturday I walked a lot all over Oaxaca. I delivered a fourth item of clothing to a small neighborhood alterations business. One woman does all the measuring as three seamstresses are working away at their machines. I don't mind wearing baggy clothes up to a point. But a few things that I'd like to keep, I decided to have taken in a bit. The "Flax" pants and jacket that Sachiyo and Nami gave me last summer are so comfortable and "lineny", I'd like to keep them going. Time will tell how that all works out.

I'm sitting outside in the courtyard at almost nine in the evening. Only a few paces away a couple who volunteer for a village school each year are talking in their room to their grandchildren. Obviously on Skype. The oohs and aws over what they're being shown are fun to hear. The grandma just asked about some music and then broke into a sweet rendition of Twinkle twinkle little star. The kids sound adorable and it makes me miss everyone.

I started my fourth and last week of classes at the Institute today and received a message that my intercambio partner was detained and couldn't make it. So, after the outdoor conversation hour with my class, I wandered over to "Marco Polo," a restaurant that has been highly touted by some of the Mariposa dwellers. Had a fish filet with lots of garlic and, I'm afraid a fair amount of butter. The fish was good but the rest of the meal which included iceberg lettuce, was only so so. Back tonight to "100% Natural" for a small dish of roasted veggies and fruit plate. Much better! They also make marvelous veggie drinks, sometimes combined with a little fruit. Had the one made partly with beets. Gorgeous color!

I sat in the restaurant which has a stirling view of the Llano Park across the street. I was intrigued by all the action there as usual — even after 8:00. As I left, I couldn't resist crossing over and doing a short walk around one of the fountains, past the many "bench lovers" and a few little ones still commandeering their great miniature mechanical and battery driven cars. What a scene. This morning as I passed through the same area of the park, a mother was "racing" her 7 year old across the plaza and back to a father and sibling siting on one of the stone retaining walls. Mama turned and jogged away again but the little one called it a day. So many people use this park for exercise. It's very impressive to see so much running in the morning and the evening in this whole neighborhood. Fitness is definitely big here and people look quite healthy. Because I can't do my usual swimming here, I'm trying to be good about doing the Canadian Air Force exercises in the morning and evening. Don't really feel like it sometimes, but I certainly can tell the difference in how easy it is to walk considerable distances. Also notice how much better my back feels this year. I've always felt good, but now is definitely better.

The weather here has been a very mixed bag the last few days. Big rain yesterday afternoon. A gully washer. But I noticed that ten minutes after it stopped, the sidewalk was absolutely dry. Altitude and dry air has its effect in a hurry. So refreshing and peaceful after it stops and the thunder comes to an end. I'm not much of a city person any more, but this city is fabulous for me in every way.