Tuesday, 31, 2012

January 30, 2012

Yesterday was truly a feast. I took the all day trip to Tule, Teotitlan Del Valle, Mitla, Hierve El Agua and a bustling mescal maker. Of course we also stopped for a buffet that possibly rivals last Sunday's feast at the hacienda. I'm sure there were no less than fifty dishes presented and the heated ones were all kept bubbling hot. Salads, separate salad ingredients, mixed and separate cooked vegetables, sauces with meat and sauces without meat including moles and salsas. A grill serving every possible meat or combination thereof. Starches, such as potatoes, corn meal, four colors of rice etc. Not to mention various kinds of specialties such as chile rellenos and the like. Then "postres" — deserts, fruits, puddings, including the classic arroz con leche. Drinks included everything imaginable with juices from all possible flowers and herbs. OK — Enough! But no exaggeration!

I loved seeing the huge tree at Tule which is said to have the thickest girth of any tree in the world. Impossible to get a picture of its entirety. Quite impressive and beautiful altogether.

It was a joy to visit Teotitlan again after being there several times last year. We visited the cooperative run by the Chavez family and were treated to a very knowledgeable talk and demonstration by one of Eric Chavez's cousins. Deftly switching from Spanish to English and speaking with comfortable authority. He told us that everyone there begins to learn about weaving or spinning and dyeing at age six. Men do most of the weaving but not all. After watching him demonstrate on his loom he showed us a stack of rugs using various natural colors and featuring different levels of difficulty or use of time. It was when he showed us two pieces done by an eight year old boy that I crumbled. I had vowed not to buy any more rugs this year. No space in my suitcase. But yes, I crumbled and bought both of them. By then the van was ready to whisk us away and down the hill to the mescal production.

I enjoyed my own "in English" tour of the mescal producing operation. And I bought 3 small sized bottles of their wares after tasting at least five of them.

The definite highlight of the trip, however, was Mitla. The Zapotec ruins there are extraordinary and said to be greatly influenced by the presence of Mixtec groups that arrived there from the north. Amazing facades are still in tact on the temple walls that aren't going anywhere soon. It's so interesting to see in stone carving and painstakingly detailed mosaics made from individual pieces of stone. All the wonderful patterns one sees in local Zapotec weavings can be found on these walls. Just breathtaking!

Less than an hour from Mitla is the site of our last visit of the day. Hierve El Agua mineral springs was our final destination, reached after a fast entry up and into the mountains. The name, Hierve El Agua translates to boiling water. The water is not hot, however, but loaded with minerals. As you leave the parking area, a wide but precarious trail leads down to the main pools where the water bubbles from the mountainside. As you descend down the increasingly steep pathway,the views of the deep gorges and dramatic mountain formations are awe inspiring in their own right. Evidently, because of local disputes, this site isn't always open for visitors, so I feel doubly pleased that I was able to see it.

Going back through the mountains was perhaps a bit more "rapido" than I like, but I could tell that the nice young man who had taken over driving for this last venture into the mountains, and who had given me the personal mescal tour, had driven this road many times. I told myself to hold on and relax. Then around the bend — Wow! A rainbow. Must have been raining somewhere out there. A beautiful omen and the nice young, fast driving man took me right to my doorstep at Las Mariposas.

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Sort of a day of Rest —

This marks the half way point in my visit this year to Oaxaca. I'd be hard put to quantify the results of my efforts to improve my Spanish language skills. For sure there has been some improvement. I do find myself constructing longer and longer sentences in my mind as I walk from place to place. And I know from my time of learning to speak Danish that this is a promising step forward. The only problem at this stage is that you become even more acutely aware of how much you have yet to learn. Oh well — When in doubt, retreat to the old "One foot in front of the other" and just not worry too much about it.

I walked to the Zocolo to purchase my ticket for a full day trip to Mitla and other locations tomorrow. As I was leaving the northernmost square, lightning began popping in an up close and serious way. The rain followed, harder during each block but I stopped at the 100% Natural for a bite to eat and was reasonably dried out by the time I left there.

Back to my trip to the Zocolo just after noon. I met several friends on the way and one woman I met recently in the cooking class joined me at my table after I had eaten lunch. Before she sat down I enjoyed the sweet sounds of an older man playing the saxophone beautifully and with so much soul. How this culture enjoys music of all kinds. I was ready with some pesos as he walked by and held out his hat.

I seem to be working my way backward during my description of this day. This morning several of us did a self conducted tour of our rooms here at Las Mariposas. As we worked our way back to several of the rooms, I was astonished at how large this "cozy" hotel actually is. A whole labyrinth of corridors wanders between unexpected, surprisingly open courtyards. Garden plantings everywhere. No wonder so many people reserve a whole year in advance. I'm feeling lucky to have been able to get in this year at all. I am scheduled to move to a single tiny room sometime next week because this second floor little gem I'm in with the Matrimonial (full) bed is booked for the last part of my stay. Fine — a chance to see one more of the options and save some money at the same time.

A new friend here gave me a short Face Book orientation this morning. It seems to me Face Book just keeps getting more and more complicated. One happy thing I discovered though. The picture Jeffie had put on my page featuring me sprawled over our porch steps is gone. Thank you Jeffie or whoever expedited that little change. I'm afraid I may never be completely comfortable with FB, but it is a reality of the times so I'll keep trying.

Thursday a woman in the cooking class mentioned that she wanted to buy a book for her intercombio partner and had tried to buy Lolita for her but it was just too expensive. That brought to mind that I hadn't read that book since some time in the sixties. I brought it up on my Kindle and discovered that there is a marvelous new annotated edition of Lolita and I purchased it for my account. So all of you who share this account can find it on your archive reached in the menu section. I haven't gotten past the forward notes into the actual book, but the intro essay contains fascinating notes on Nabokov. Kathy, as a writer, I think you'll find it very provacative. Hope you all enjoy it.

Moving Back and forth, one more word about this last week. Yesterday I revisited the Textile Museum because I had an appointment to meet Eric Chavez. It seems almost for sure that he, his sister, brother and, possibly, his father, will visit California in the spring. The Mendocino County Museum asked me to inquire about holding an exhibition of Zapotec weaving there in the future. I invited the Chavez family to join us for this year's Taurus party. He seems pleased with the idea and they will plan to bring lots of rugs for displaying and selling. Could I have a better birthday gift than to have weavers from Teotitlán del Valle there to celebrate with us? The Oaxaca Textile Museum has a lovely feeling of sharing, enthusing, educating and appreciating in a gentle, flexible, low key manner. So much of this, I suspect, has to do with their director's and Eric's passion for all the subjects that are dealt with there, from yarn dyeing to the many ways that weaving is accomplished. I'm quite thrilled that some of you might be meeting this lovely family in May.

Thursday January 26, 2012

Trip to Monte Alban — Wow!

Before I copy out what I have drafted for this entry I have to report the wild screaming going on downstairs from my room. It''s coming from a sports reporter calling one of the many "big time" ball games going on in Latin America this week. My classmate, Sophie, from London, missed class to watch several of them and it's practically all you hear some people talking about. You can undoubtedly Google this date to figure out what all the screaming is about.

Now back to catching up—I'm hopelessly behind in describing the last few days. Life is so busy there's little time for much other than the classes. You'll have to settle at the moment for a brief summary which may well be a bit out of order, but —who's to know?

I took an all day Sunday tour to Monte Alban and surrounding villages. Seeing these amazing Zapotec ruins was breathtaking. Last year I passed on it because of my well known acrophobia. But I couldn't hold out any longer. I've wanted to see this site for years and I finally decided I'd go and tough it out. I was surprisingly OK. A wondrous thing to stand in the middle of a grand gathering center that would have held thousands of people. Some performing, some drinking who knows what, some smoking who knows what and many dancing. What a scene that must have been.

The onsight museum presents amazing artifacts both small and large and beautifully installed. Hearing about the use of trees whose leaves, branches and twigs provided all kinds of herbal remedies as well as construction additives for hardening or glazing joints and surfaces more than a thousand years ago was totally fascinating. All in all, Monte Alban is an awesome sight that is well worth reading about if you can't come here to see it for yourself.

The rest of the afternoon was filled with short rides on dirt roads and visits to village artisans. Interesting to see one of the places where some of the animistic painted wooden figures I've seen for so long have originated.

A spectacular meal was enjoyed at a lovely Hacienda where I became acquainted with an engaging Canadian woman who had spent some time living in California when her husband was teaching at Stanford. I've promised a number of Canadians I'd come visiting when I find the perfect little "Realta" to go traveling in. Salt Springs Island will definitely be on my route.

We finished the tour at a famous site of Doña Rosa's alfareria where unique clays produce the well known "barrow negro." Doña Rosa lived from 1900 and worked in her shop until the day of her death in 1980. She was famous for recognizing the true qualities and potential of this local clay which is evidently only found in several locations The potters of Coyotepec still use their traditional methods of forming pots without a wheel by using two concave clay plates, one upside down, supporting the other. This method from prehistoric times, takes 20 to 30 days for a product to reach completion. I bought a tiny black frog and turtle to place in the "Frog."

So Sunday was full, you might say exhausting, but so exhilarating I'm still thrilled thinking about it.

Monday, classes resumed and take the whole day except for a two hour lunch break. They finish with the cooking class which ended today with a "postre" consisting of the classic Arroz con Leche. Delicious.

A

Saturday, January 21, 2012 — A relaxing day

Saturday, January 21, 2012 — A Relaxing Day

A day for choices. I'll try again to see Anulfo because he may have a copy of a book I'd like to buy. His gallery is right near the English book store where I'll try to find several things including a packet of maps I bought last year but forgot to bring.

The last few nights I've been eating at the "100% Natural" restaurant around the corner. I've taken half of the great brown and wild rice with vegetables and tofu dinner home in a box and eaten it for breakfast. So delicious and loaded with ginger. Last night there was a guitarist playing and singing beautiful ballads. I hope he's there again. He plays very fluidly and has a lovely voice.

I checked in on Anulfo Mendoza again but he looks very sick and hadn't had a chance to look for the book I'm lusting after. I think I'll give it about a week before I make a return visit. His tapestries are always wonderful to look at so it's never a wasted visit.

Picked up some tour information and walked on to the Zocolo where I ate at the restaurant that had the great ensalada verde. Wasn't quite so good — not the big variety of veggies, but delicious never the less. My newly learned phrase is "sin embargo" meaning "however." Has a good ring to it, doesn't it? Such fun when you finally remember a word for more than fifteen minutes. Hope springs eternal.

I walked home the same way I came so I'd have time to prepare for the 6:00 opening of the exhibition at the Textile Museum. Met various friends (so many great Canadians here). One couple were here last year and recognized me as having given a presentation during our Maiz show. How gratifying.

This exhibition uses two halls, actually three rooms. It is titled " A Legacy Of The Moors: Pillows, Rugs And Saddlebags." I can't wait to get back to look at everything more closely and for a longer time. Openings don't really do that for you. But it was lovely to see and I'll be commenting more I'm sure. I had a brief visit with the museum director and also Eric Chavez, the Education director for the museum. We're planning to meet again this coming Friday. I love being in that museum. There is such an inquiring atmosphere there. The show is beautiful and I'll try to get a few pics for you soon. Walked home with a rice drink in my hand. I'll have to try to repeat it for a Pacific Textile Arts First Friday. It wasn't the plain rice drink, but had melon, other fruit and walnuts in it. The nuts wouldn't work for everyone but was perfect for me. Homework to do — Abrazos.

Friday, January 20, 2012 — A Day For Choices

Friday, January 20 — More time to explore today—

No cooking class and no intercambio today. I found I was missing my USB connector to the little Nikon. So I followed directions to an Office Depot about six blocks up the hill from school. As one of my classmates predicted they didn't have that little micro USB I needed, but they did have several card readers. I only have two of them at home already, but what was my choice? I picked out a tiny little Kingston (quite cute) and of course found at least six more semi necessary items while I was there. Huge difference in prices for simple lined blank notebooks without graph paper and with cardboard covers instead of hard covers. I saw one earlier in my search at a papeleria for 220 pesos. Bought one at a book store for 17 and bought one at the Depot for 7 pesos. Absolutely equal quality.

I found my way to Calle Acala but was not able to speak with Anulfo Mendoza because he was resting. So here I am facing the Zocolo, sitting at an amiable street cafe under the colonnade, watching people parade by and looking beyond to a garden tapestry richly covered with point Setias all vibrantly in bloom. A sea of deep red. What a scene.

School has been so demanding time wise that this is my first visit here at the Zocolo this year. Calle Hidalgo is just beyond, so I'll take the opportunity to walk down to the Textile Museum, see the exhibits and library and try to visit with Eric Chavez, their education director.

A woman at tapestry weaver Anulfo's gallery remarked that I would probably not find a salad in this direction. But here I sit, having just eaten a lovely green salad. High quality lettuce, spinach, gorbanzas, tomatoes, red and green bell peppers and onions. How good can it get. Music in the background, sipping an after meal cafe con leche frio and continuing my writing.

What a special feeling here. There is so much warmth and affection visible in this city. Also in Mexico in general. But I have to say I don't know of a place where the people look happier. They're always kissing and hugging and looking pleased with each other.

Just gave 10 pesos to a beautiful young woman who played the guitar near us for a few minutes. Very self contained, jauntily wearing a baret. Lovely handwoven guitar case cover on her back and singing like a trooper. Made me think of Mike at that age. — What do I know? Last few minutes she's been discussing something back and forth with a tall young vendadora who reached into the musicians purse flap, took something from it and popped in her mouth. I took another picture of the two of them and they cautiously turned their backs to me and walked off. Sorry girls, I didn't mean to scare you away.

January 18, 2012 The fun begins —

January 18, Wednesday —

January 18, Wednesday.

I think I've gone to heaven. This is what my schedule has settled into:

8:30 — Walk from Las Mariposas to the Instituto Cultural Oaxaca.

9:00 — 12:00 — Class with eight people plus maestra. Reading, writing orating, conversing.

12:00 — 1:00 — Group conversation out on the colonade.

1:00 — 3:00 — Lunch break. Great places to eat and fascinating city to explore. Today I ate at "100% Natural," a kind of organic restaurant around the corner from my hotel, with freshly baked seeded bread, mountains of fruits and vegetables. Sound like it was made for me?

3:00 — 4:00 — Intercombio. A one hour conversation with someone who wants to improve his English and correct my Spanish. Assigned by the staff. My conversation partner is a lovely man. A 70 year old psychologist, originally from a small village in VEra Cruz. The plan is for us to speak in Spanish for half an hour and in English the other half. Today was our first go at it and I found it challenging but very pleasant.

4:00 — 6:00 — Cooking class. No English allowed! Today we made our own tortillas, chipotle/tomatilla salsa, blended some black beans into a thick mix. Then we cooked our two tortillas we had just formed with our wet hands, placed a drop of lard, bean sauce, crumbled cheese atnd topped with the salsa. Then put them on the fire again until the bean mi bubbled. Then, of course, we had to eat them. Such a chore.

Pics show our instructor, Vicki, demonstrating and telling me what to do.

January 15, Off to Oaxaca

January 15, Sunday

Travel from San Francisco to Mexico City and on to Oaxaca after a three hour layover. Left SFO at 1:00 in the morning. First time I've taken a red eye. Might be the last. In airport at Mexico City I managed to get 500 pesos fro an ATM. All I could get but enough to eat on for several days. Arrived in Oaxa at 1:00 Sunday afternoon. Took Collectivo to Las Mariposas. Slept until 6:00 am nexteredt day. My room is sweet but Spartan. Bye for now.

January 16, Monday

—Showered and began Skip;s rule of washing clothes in shower each day. Think he learned that in the navy. Registered at the Institute at 8:30. Assigned to my class after doing placement test. Advanced beginner is where I'm at. Maybe too high?I signed up for a cooking workshop but didn't get back across town in time. Had lunch at a so so little restaurant beyond Mariposas. Good salad and tortilla soup. Very friendly woman owner. Dinner in my room — Nuts, crunch bar, kale chips. I asked for a little table, chair and lamp to do my homework at. All arrived by 7:30. Gorgeous evening clouds out on terrace while waiting for the furniture. I think I'll spend a lot of time out there. Fountain with sever small fish just outside my door. Sky couldn't be more beautiful. Time to do my exercises and crash.

January 17, Tuesday

— The class is getting more difficult. We're just bombing along. One pilot from Washington already complaining a little about not understanding. Bet there'll be a bit of that. It was definitely more tiring for all of us I think. Yesterday I din't have success with any of the ATMs. A class member ( a journalst from New York went with me after the conversation hour at the end. She showed me a bank (no sign) one block away from Las Mariposas. Right under my nose and it's machine had the most straight forward operating instructions of all tried so far. Whew! Never think much about money until I don't have any.

There are three rooms up on this terrace pals patio and the before mentioned very pleasant fountain on the wall just opposite my room. They turn the fountain off at about 8:00. Perfect.

January 18, Wednesday — Pictures begin —Next posting —

January 2, 2012

Welcome to my new platform. The photos shown above are scenes from a wonderful exhibit mounted by sculptor, Ann Hedges, of San Francisco and Fort Bragg. It delights me to be able to express my feelings about such events when the spirit moves me. Definitely does me good. This collection in the fairly new gallery at the north end of town has definitely found it's best possible venue. The room is open, sparse, and doesn't impose anything on Ann's delightful assemblages. I need to run now but I'll have a few thoughts to share with you about this show in the next few days. There will be a second First Friday opening there this Friday night. It's definitely refreshing and worth being seen.

Happy to be here. Back soon.

Having a totally crazy Friday mixed with familly fiscal responsibilities and confusions. I thought about my hair appointment until about 11:00 and then spaced it and missed my 1:00 apointment. So sorry Cindy. Held three conference calls between myself and people who know what those crazy forms mean at my broker's and attorney's offices. There's a right place for everyone if you can just find it. I'm so glad I don't do what they do. Today I'm so glad I do what I do and don't have to do their jobs. Between these calls I dealt with the nice man who is trying to procure a little Realta RV for me. Nothing got settled from those talks. Enough of this.

I'm on my way down to Pacific Textile Arts to finish putting the labels on my contributions to the exhibit there of textiles from the collections of Jackie Wollenberg and Jill McCaughna. But before I go I must tell you where Ann Hedges' exciting exhibit is mounted. More about it tomorrow.

It's at a gallery called the Lost Coast Culture Machine located at 190 E Elm Street, Fort Bragg. As you enter the gallery there is a room to the left featuring a gorgeous video of coastal breakers and powerful waves. On the floor are two collections of bowling balls creatively arranged. Great over-dubs on the sound track featuring people involved in sport and the powerful breaking of waves. Good metaphors in a dozen directions if you stop and really look and listen. Great show, Ann. I must run to my own show so as not to miss it. It's that kind of day.