Poor Little Neglected Blog

About to make my big decision

My first meal at the market

I have to laugh thinking of all I've missed in these last years

Endless things to drink

The lady from Tlacalula

The ever smiling painter

The kids are endlessly watchable — Painter in background

Hustle and bustle when you step outside ICO grounds

These pics all from ICO — More to come of the park later this evening

ICO campus walkway

My latest classroom

Coffee shop terrace — My last year's maestra, Ita in purple

Entry to ICO

I've been trying to show Art all the wonders of Oaxaca since his arrival and the unfortunate side of that is the obvious neglect of some writing I actually enjoy doing very much. But we all know that at times like this — Something's gotta give. 

I meant to connect with you all the day I finished my classes at ICO (Instituto Cultural Oaxaca). It was a wonderful, and I think productive, four weeks that I spent there this year. I value it for many reasons and from all sides. I meet people, I progress in my Spanish (no matter what), I get to see and buy some of Manuel's creative stainless steel earrings, I get the exercise and stimulus of walking through Llano Park twice each day, etc., etc. It was fun, enlightening — stressful. So, by the last day, I was ready, exhilarated and full of plans for the next few days before Arthur was expected. He's here now and we're having a great time exploring Oaxaca and environs. 

As I left the ICO grounds I was thoroughly ready to celebrate. I walked the two blocks to the park, crossed over  and smelled all the incredible aromas of the Friday Market at Llano, I made a split second decision to celebrate by breaking a rule I have followed for at least five years. Up to that moment I had made it a policy to never eat at kiosks or outdoor food venders. I've had awfully good luck at never getting sick here and I credit that rule for a portion of my good fortune. But there I was, standing in front of the food stall from the Pueblo of Tlacalula which specializes in barbecued lamb and goat. It smelled heavenly and I sat down on a bench next to three middle aged women who smiled and welcomed me.  I looked at what they were eating and then asked the man who came to serve me what the options were. He showed me a folder with enticing pictures of food from which I chose a mixed bowl of barego, chev and a course polenta like starch. It came along with fresh, hot tortillas and I pulled out a complimentary, undersized can of Squirt I had been offered as I crossed into the crowd at the edge of the venders.  The food was tasty and  a bit intriguing because there were a couple of items I didn't quite recognize. One looked like lumps of black beans glued together and the other was a vegetable I didn't seem familiar with. I ate down through the lovely meat to about an inch from the bottom of the corn mixture. I still couldn't figure out the bean thing so I was a little shy about it and decided that I wouldn't stretch my luck. I was satisfied, had broken a long standing, self imposed rule and was still feeling fine. 

I wandered through about ten booths, still amazed that I had broken my rule. I did my usual watching of the little people driving their rented miniature cars around one of the fountains and then settled in on a bench not too far from the south end of the park. Pretty near to where I had settled was a painter with easel and brush in hand, working at his trade with a magnificent smile on his face. His female partner was almost dozing on the border cement between the lawn, plantings and walkway. People sometimes spoke to him and he seemed to reply cheerfully or stopped to show them some of his work. Then, back to the little easel and never abandoning the smile. How lovely to see someone who is so obviously happy with what he has chosen to do. Just thinking about that, plus watching a series of parents and grandparents walking along and dealing with a total spectrum of tiny people (sometimes tyrants) in a very patient and good humored manner, left me with a constant smile on my face. I kept thinking I should walk on home, but the scene was so captivating and I was feeling so happy, that I stayed on until almost 4:00 in the afternoon. I walked home full of endorphins and the feeling of joy at being here and witnessing so much simple evidence of man's humanity.