Wednesday, February 29, 2012 — Tough time in Yelapa
As usual, time is flying. Kathy and I had three nights together in Vallarta before catching the boat to Yelapa. She arrived Friday in the late afternoon after which we had a nice swim in the warm waters of the Los Arcos pool. Saturday we took our morning swim after early fruit plates from the hotel buffet. I called Jean Pierre to make sure I understood the hours for the Peter Gray Museum and then we engaged a taxi to take us there and wait while we went in to see the lovely exhibit of Zapotec weavings by a group J.P. had assembled to show at this prestigious location. The exhibit was breathtaking and we only lamented that we had not invited the cab driver to join us in our viewing.
Safely back at Playa Los Arcos, we swam, shopped and visited until it was time to take Kathy to Archie's Wok for dinner. She said she thinks it may have been the best dinner she's ever had. No question but that it was wonderful food, very simpatico service, charming music provided by a woman who sang softly, played the harp and flute and occasionally schmoozed with the diners as she came and went. The engaging and skillfully executed paintings that adorn this very artfully appointed, three leveled space, are by a woman Kathy and I met in El Tuito while on a visit (Kathy's first) to the Larochette compound on Sunday. They remind me of Bill McGrail's work in a tropical way but they definitely have their own flavor and work extremely well on this restaurant's walls.
Sunday Kathy and I set out to catch a bus to El Tuito for a posole lunch Yael and JP invited us to. We missed our bus by a couple of minutes, watching it turn the corner while we still had one block to go before reaching the bus stop. After waiting 30 minutes for another bus I decided to hail a taxi and fortunately found "Felipe" who was happy to make the drive into the mountains. We arrived just as Jean Pierre invited the other guests, a group of art students from the university in Vallarta, to a presentation in the studio about tapestry making and concentrating on a discussion of how he and Yael collaborate in their work. A rapt audience hung on his every word and asked very good questions. After Yael discussed her part of their work together, she asked Kathy and me to join her downstairs to finalize the serving plans. Kathy was awestruck by the beauty of their house, studio and grounds that I have traveled to for ten years. I was so happy for her to see why I had been drawn to it for such a long time. After our great meal out on the porch, Yael and I showed Kathy the plaza and neighborhoods that are so dear to me. Just before catching our bus, we enjoyed a quick, chance meeting at the El Tuito home of the painter who did all the great work on Archie's walls.
We returned by bus, but I can't say happily so. The driver didn't look like he could possibly be even 18 years old. The first time he put his foot on the brakes, I shuddered in concert with the brakes. When we hit the down hill areas he seemed to do everything to avoid using the brakes, but was going too fast to shift to lower gears. It soon reminded me of my midnight run from Guadalajara with the driver who was obviously on something and who cut 40 minutes from the trip time. I was sure I wasn't going to survive that nightmare and I began to have similar feelings as we careened down Highway 200 at breakneck speed around marked for caution turns.When the boy who was riding the front window and looking every bit like a 14 year old brother to the infant driver, I knew I wasn't alone in my fears. The look on his face spoke volumes. The rest of the passengers were amazingly stoic. That seems to be the Mexican passenger credo. "Vaya con Dios." After the driver stopped one time, got out and looked over the axels, I knew i had a case. The open door allowed the smell of unhappy brake pads to waft inward. He got back in, continued his way into town and I'm here to tell about it, so what can I say? Should I check for ID before I attempt that trip again? Or take a taxi, or engage a friend ????????
We boarded the Yelapa taxi boat at 11:00 a.m. Monday morning. Much easier than anticipated because the sea was unusually calm. Just as easy at the Yelapa end. Since then we've been swimming and reading and eating. All very enjoyable. We're happily ensconced in #5 and all the waiters in the dining area remember us perfectly and greeted us warmly when we first entered the dining area. They asked about the whole family, especially Elena because of all the origami cranes she made for a baby shower her four years ago. Amazing. Such warm hearted people here ….one and all. Marcos was at our table with his earrings and bracelets and rings as we finished our first meal. I have to wonder if he sits over at his house across the bay with his field glasses waiting for people he knows. He was crushed to hear about Skip and we quickly changed the subject he looked so distraught.
We've taken the names of the three girls who received Elena's cranes before and we plan to send some of her miniature crane earrings to them via Luke at Lagunitas. Hope that works. They are such precious people.
Kathy and I walked up the river several miles, planning to eat at Christina's vegetarian restaurant. It is situated ideally overlooking the river with all it's gorgeous boulders and greenery. But alas, she's closed on Wednesdays. So tomorrow we're thinking we'll go to the village in the morning, climb to the "cascade" (waterfall) and have breakfast there at the top of the trail overlooking the pool under the falls. Then we'll roam through the village and walk up river again in time for lunch at Christina's on the river. Sounds tough, huh? Especially with a little swim before we leave in the exquisite boulder laden pool situated here at Lagunitas, with it's peepholes that look down on the beach and surf. We're just about sure we can handle it. Guess you can tell we're having fun.. — Until Later — Pictures sometime tomorrow —
Much love to all.
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