From Vallarta with wifi off and on —
Doing this by hand first in my notebook because as is so often the case the last few days, the wifi is DOWN! Or Safari just isn't connecting to it. But I have faith — it shall return — Always seems to eventually.
I'm sitting near an open glass door to my second floor terrace at Playa Los Arcos in Vallarta. My first night here was a huge letdown. A room with one window, only to the outer hall. The next day, before I could begin to complain, the woman at the counter said to me, "I have a room overlooking the pool for you now." "Is it one on this side with a balcony?" "No, it's on the other side." "Frown." "Would you like to see it first?" "Yes, thank you." I had so wanted to get one of the rooms Skip and I had shared. I looked and it was one with the big balcony that we had so often looked over at. I said, "I'll take it." By the next day I realized it was much better to start with a clean slate and this room does that. This morning I thanked the hardworking lady at the desk profusely. This is luxuriously spacious both indoors and on the balcony. I said, "¿Es mas caro?" and she said, "No, it's the same price." A new era has begun at Playa Los Arcos for me.
I've had five good swims already and walked to Hotel Rosita for a Cob salad at the other end of the completely refurbished malacon. The salad wasn't as good as I remembered it. They have closed the street that used to parallel the malacon beyond the river and made the whole thing a walking street, part of the malacon. At my end of the walk, the pier for the boat to Yelapa is nonexistent and being reconstructed with huge pillars rising out of the water. Looks like it will be a long time in the making.
I can't get Safari to connect right now, as I said. So I don't even quite remember where I left off with the blog entries from Oaxaca.
I almost missed my flight from Mexico City to Vallarta because when I looked for my gate assignment, the board told me #75 for that flight. So I walked a long distance with my heavy armful of rugs to the area where gate #75. A very nice young man on his way to Leon France insisted on giving up his seat to me. He was born in Costa Rica, living in France and visiting Mexico City. As the long time layover closed in on 15 minutes before my takeoff time, I got nervous and went to the nearest counter to ask about my flight since I hadn't heard any boarding instructions yet. They told me my gate had been changed to #67. Back to the other end of the huge corridor. Half way there I decided I wasn't going to make it with those bags. I asked for help at an info kiosk and they called a wheel chair with pusher into action. The man motioned for me to sit and I said it was for the bags, not me. So we took off running and made it to that gate just as they were closing it. Whew! I thanked him and gave him the only 40 pesos I had at hand and boarded.
We seemed to take a long time after that before we rolled out to the takeoff runway. The engines roared and we moved a few increasingly fast meters and then came to a complete halt. From that time on until we eventually cruised into the area by the facilities for an engine check, I did not once catch a glimpse of a single flight attendant. They just evaporated until we were once again on the move. It must be rough on them to walk the aisle and get the very same questions thrown at them over and over. Long story short — We took off again with everyone holding his breath and arrived at Puerto Vallarta one hour late.
Primo was right there smiling and greeting me. I was happy to be on terra firma and happy to see that he hadn't given up and left the airport. He didn't seem perturbed at all and we made three quick stops before leaving town for the drive into the mountains and up to El Tuito. Stops: #1 Sams to buy Chaio some flowers, #2 the store where Primo buys his drinking and cooking water and #3 Pemex for gas. Then off we headed along the coast and into the mountains along the river.
It was a lovely feeling to be on that road again and Primo is a good driver so I could relax and enjoy the ride.
Time at El Tuito flew by. There were four thoroughly engaging guests there before me. One had been the very first student Jean Pierre had at the San Francisco Tapestry Workshop many years before. Melanie Berry and her husband Duncan were still up when I arrived. Liked them immediately. Found that among others, we had friend Pam Patrie in common. That old six degrees of separation. the next morning I met Duncan's mother, Win, and David. What a group to set off with the next morning for a trip to Playa Perula via a side trip to a Ricea still at a remote ranch up a nearby river I've always wanted to explore.
Swam at Perula. Delightful! Had a great lunch on the beach at the usual place. Ice cream bars and coconut stops on the way home. Next morning — one sick Duncan. Still don't know exactly what that was caused by. He was up and about but definitely feeling bad when it was time for the cutting off party. Very game for a sick man, I must say. The last I saw of this lively foursome, they were boarding one of the boats for Yelapa the way one used to from and to Yelapa — the hard way — over a fast rising and falling transom in the rear of the boat. I held my breath for them as each hopped up the undependable entry. They they were off and running on their way down the coast.
Backing up just a little bit — After making the preparations for the cutting off party we walked to Mario's for a late lunch. Delicious. Wish Duncan, who bravely came along, could have enjoyed more that his mineral water. He even went along for the quick trip to see Louis and his ceramic setup at the south end of town.
The opening celebration was lovely and Jean Pierre's last minute call to witness drew just the perfect number for an intimate party with old friends. I screeched with joy when Bonny and Pat popped around the corner. They are so dear to me. Suzanna from the Peter Gray Museum and Vicki and Hank answered the call also. A really good time was had by all.
From the dining room at Play Los Arcos I've seen three fantastic sunsets over the last evenings, including the one tonight during which I could swear it included a green flash. Each night I've wondered if they've been glued to the same view from Yelapa that I've been enjoying from here. There's no better place to watch sunsets from than Yelapa. I hope it's been magnificent for them. (I'm getting sleepy and the pictures aren't on yet — maybe just one, so come back and there'll be many more when the gods make their latest wifi decisions.
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