Happy New Year everyone. After a series of flights fraught with problems and delays, I reached the Oaxaca airport at about midnight with only one meal under my belt. Considering the weight I gained during the trip across Canada and the U.S., that should not be considered all bad. But, of course I had a hearty appetite this morning as I ate breakfast in the courtyard here with tortillas and scrambled eggs cooked over an outdoor fire.
I'm attending a natural dye class, taught by Eric Chavez in the Chavez family compound. So good to see Eric again along with his mother, father, sister and brother. They are all weavers. The courtyard and house are filled with looms. Eric is the Education Director for the Textile Museum in Oaxaca and his sister, Janet is teaching Zapotec as well as working toward an advanced degree in Zapotec Languages. Their younger brother, Omar is studying engineering. But they were all there this morning to greet us and share techniques for warp making, mordanting and showing us a pile of their finished products. I bought a small rug made by Dolores, Eric's mom. They had taken me out for dinner on my last night in Oaxaca last year, and it felt so good to see them again.
My abode for the next two nights is sparse and rustic with my room opening out onto a courtyard where meals are served if weather permits. I saw and heard what I think (?) was a flock of tanagers in the tree just above our table at breakfast. They made a lot of noise and I'm hoping to get the two bird call apps onto my phone that Roger put on my IPod several years ago. Unfortunately, my IPod seems to have left me around the time I was in Oberlin visiting Leah. But due to modern technology, the apps are still mine and on record with Apple. I haven't accomplished getting them transferred to my phone yet but I have high hopes I'll manage to do it soon. I somehow feel that the calls may turn out to be my best way to recognize birds or at least play a significant role.
We went for lunch at a restaurant owned by a niece of Dolores. For those who know this village, it is located toward the downhill southern edge of town in an attractive upscale business compound that buys from many weavers and sells both retail and wholesale. So everywhere you look from the dining table you see Zapotec weaving. Our lunch was delicious and consisted of a thin tortilla covered with black bean sauce, cheese and veggies or chicken. Then came some lovely mole covered enchiladas and mixed plates of vegetables, beans and rice. Two waters, one from pineapple and one a flower I always forget, were served in large pitchers. I mixed the two and they were lovely to watch as their colors blended. The star of the lunch time, however was a very active and vociferous little kitten. Of course, I'd have him in a minute if I could. He has the most interesting markings I've ever seen. I'd love to see what his mother looks like.
I rested this afternoon in hopes of cutting short the first cold I've had in two or three years. Maybe it's better to get them more often and then get some kind of easier version. I'm just a little spoiled because I practically never get sick. A sweet little girl on the plane from Houston to Oaxaca offered me her last stick of gum. I asked her if I could split it with her instead and it's amazing how much less affected my sinuses and ears felt in comparison to the descent into Houston where it was frankly excruciating.
Well, now that I've begun to complain a bit, it's probably time to say goodnight and see what a good night's sleep will bring me. Love to all, Jackie
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