Thursday January 26, 2012

Trip to Monte Alban — Wow!

Before I copy out what I have drafted for this entry I have to report the wild screaming going on downstairs from my room. It''s coming from a sports reporter calling one of the many "big time" ball games going on in Latin America this week. My classmate, Sophie, from London, missed class to watch several of them and it's practically all you hear some people talking about. You can undoubtedly Google this date to figure out what all the screaming is about.

Now back to catching up—I'm hopelessly behind in describing the last few days. Life is so busy there's little time for much other than the classes. You'll have to settle at the moment for a brief summary which may well be a bit out of order, but —who's to know?

I took an all day Sunday tour to Monte Alban and surrounding villages. Seeing these amazing Zapotec ruins was breathtaking. Last year I passed on it because of my well known acrophobia. But I couldn't hold out any longer. I've wanted to see this site for years and I finally decided I'd go and tough it out. I was surprisingly OK. A wondrous thing to stand in the middle of a grand gathering center that would have held thousands of people. Some performing, some drinking who knows what, some smoking who knows what and many dancing. What a scene that must have been.

The onsight museum presents amazing artifacts both small and large and beautifully installed. Hearing about the use of trees whose leaves, branches and twigs provided all kinds of herbal remedies as well as construction additives for hardening or glazing joints and surfaces more than a thousand years ago was totally fascinating. All in all, Monte Alban is an awesome sight that is well worth reading about if you can't come here to see it for yourself.

The rest of the afternoon was filled with short rides on dirt roads and visits to village artisans. Interesting to see one of the places where some of the animistic painted wooden figures I've seen for so long have originated.

A spectacular meal was enjoyed at a lovely Hacienda where I became acquainted with an engaging Canadian woman who had spent some time living in California when her husband was teaching at Stanford. I've promised a number of Canadians I'd come visiting when I find the perfect little "Realta" to go traveling in. Salt Springs Island will definitely be on my route.

We finished the tour at a famous site of Doña Rosa's alfareria where unique clays produce the well known "barrow negro." Doña Rosa lived from 1900 and worked in her shop until the day of her death in 1980. She was famous for recognizing the true qualities and potential of this local clay which is evidently only found in several locations The potters of Coyotepec still use their traditional methods of forming pots without a wheel by using two concave clay plates, one upside down, supporting the other. This method from prehistoric times, takes 20 to 30 days for a product to reach completion. I bought a tiny black frog and turtle to place in the "Frog."

So Sunday was full, you might say exhausting, but so exhilarating I'm still thrilled thinking about it.

Monday, classes resumed and take the whole day except for a two hour lunch break. They finish with the cooking class which ended today with a "postre" consisting of the classic Arroz con Leche. Delicious.

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