Something Wonderful every Day

Kathy's and my classes are going swimmingly but I need to back up just a tad because I haven't shown you any pictures of the lovely theater where the Oaxaca Symphony took place last Friday. The theater is so charming and  spacious and yet incredibly intimate. I've never gone there without meeting someone I know. It's almost like going to Harvest Market. 

Oaxaca Symphony

One of the striking things about an evening in this theater, besides the excellence of the programs is the presence of so many children, both young and old, in the audience. Little ones eventually fall asleep in a parent's arms and some as young as eight or nine seem to stay awake and fully involved in the experience. It warms my heart to see these families sharing wonderful cultural events with each other. They all look so comfortable about it, as if is a perfectly normal part of life.

Moving away from night life, I have to share the source of endorphins for me today. When I first met Pati, my maestra for this year's classes, I made it very clear that I wanted to work on the use of and placement of objective  pronouns, both direct and indirect. And — that after we got that moving along, I wanted to take the plunge and learn about the Subjunctive mood. Well, today was the day when Pati decided it was time to begin. She gave me the   most nuanced introduction to the subject and went into such depth using such meaningful words and examples that I finished today's session totally convinced that it is worth it to find out what this lovely romance language is really about. I have been told and have read that many latin speakers use the subjunctive more than any other mode. I also find that practically no-one in the student population wants to have anything to do with it.  This makes me sad because I'd like to "talk it over" and share thoughts about it with others at my same stage of learning Spanish. It's going to require a lot of careful listening as well as memorizing a whole new set of conjugations. But I'm so hyped about it that it doesn't really worry me. So, wish me luck with this new venture. I'll keep you posted.

First Spanish Classes This Morning

Kathy and I began our classes today. We are both pleased with the instructors we have been assigned to. Kath has four  people in her class and they seem very nice. They all know a little Spanish and that actually is good for her because she learns from their responses. I think she is going to be a dynamite Spanish student judging from the  work she's been doing the last few days on Dueling and the questions she asks me.

I have a teacher who is new to me and I think she's going to be wonderful. I told her I wanted to work on direct and indirect pronouns. And then, I'd like to spend most of these three weeks working on the Subjunctive mood. Well, she didn't skip a beat. She had pronoun rules, diagrams and sentences up on the white board before I knew it. I'm quite thrilled to be attacking the two things that I know the least about but would like to learn.

Walkway between San Pablo Foundation 

and

San Pablo Restaurant

Western Wall of San Pablo Foundation

View Below The Restaurant

Kathy and I are both reading T.C. Boyle's "The Harder They Come" on our Kindles. It is only today that I have discovered that the main character is based on a man with deadly serious mental problems who shot two people in my own community. I was actually urged to not leave my house while he was traveling on foot around my neighborhood before he was apprehended. Being in Oaxaca gives me a special sense of remoteness from this subject and yet it is all so easy to relate to because it takes place so close to home. I still have almost fifty percent of the book to read and I don't know how much this new revelation is going to affect the rest of my reading of this chilling story.

I've been having digital problems beyond reason. While attempting to put my blog in place more easily on my desktop I know I responded to questions and requests by Google regarding areas of these machines (computers) I don't really understand. At one point they would not accept my password and I had to make a slight change in it in order to go on. At times when it appeared that they would not let me continue with my project unless I answered them with the checking of a box here and there, I proceeded to make a guess about the right answer and move on. So, now, as I try to just send a simple reply to someone using my email, I find that my reply is being written  on a dialogue box with absolutely no "send" button. If someone out there knows how to help me out of this quandary, please write to me with suggestions.

I know some of you good friends have worried about Kathy and me coming to Oaxaca because of all the news in the medea with warnings serious enough to be reasonably considered. We are happy to report that we are having a most interesting time here. Yes, there are demonstrations, mostly having to do with upcoming elections and we have been warned to stay some distance from them and not to photograph them. Seems like good advice. But Kathy and I hadn't heard a word of that before we both had taken pictures of several of the marches and demos taking place on prominent roadways. Otherwise, the Zocalo seems to have returned to being a very pleasant place and while trying to get from one place to another we crossed right through one of the long marches with all those we passed allowing us to make our way across the street. Inocense is bliss. We're loving Oaxaca and feel very safe here. Just like any other place we know, there are certain areas or locations you just don't go to. But that has always been the case. So please know we're having a great time.

Fun in Oaxaca

Introducing Kathy to "Arabia" Restaurant

Kathy and I arrived in Mexico Monday night after reasonably uneventful flights to Houston and then on to Oaxaca with one of those very rapid landings that came to a halt just when you'd have thought it couldn't. So all was well and I could breath again. The plane from Houston is not that big, so it should have been a quick journey into the main hall through customs and immigration. But somehow it wasn't, which isn't all that unusual either. By the time the collectivo delivered us to Hotel Las Mariposas, it was almost ten in the evening.  We were greeted enthusiastically and delivered to our tiny, tiny little room which, after various reservation snafus last year for this visit, I had agreed to. 

Turns out, it was really small and one climbed up to it by way of a corner stone staircase. Our suitcases just barely fit into the room at that moment and I have to admit to a slightly depressed feeling about the way I was introducing my darling daughter to Oaxaca for the first time. But, after we emptied our suitcases into a large armior, and tucked one of them behind a chair and the other up to the top of the armoir, I began to think it could work. Mind you, this is a wonderful hotel with some really nice sized and creatively designed rooms, but this little one was a bit outside the norm here. It has several little eccentricities that I will refrain from describing and we'll leave it at that. The next morning we opened the door which gave us a charming view out to  one of the many garden courtyards and I suddenly realized that all I cared about was being here and from that moment on, I was at peace with that precious little habitat. 

Kathy and I took care of banking, signing up at the Institute for three weeks of Spanish classes and walked to "Arabia," one of my favorite neighborhood eateries. Of course I had to introduce Kath to their succulent baguette with smoked salmon and a salad laced with citrus. We have to admit to succumbing to a cold mocha drink for dessert (see above) and proceeded to walk past the botanical gardens and up to Acala, the colorful walking street. There we fell in love with some hand made costume jewelry made by a group of gypsy craftsmen who sell their wares under canvas awnings and welcome you graciously to their booths, totally without pressuring you. They don't need to because they do such intriguing work. I bought "spider earrings" made of stainless steel and a few stones and walked away happily wearing them and feeling like I had truly returned to Oaxaca.

We expected to stay in the "tiny, tiny" room until February 19 when we will move into "my room," number 10. But by the second day, the lovely desk clerk arrived at our door to tell us that, due to a cancellation, we could move to another room if we cared to look at it. We did, and said yes of course. Then, during the evening of that day, the same lovely clerk appeared at the door of friends we were visiting with and quietly informed me that she had an even better place for us to settle into until our move to  number 10. So we are now happily enjoying a studio with kitchen and living area. It seems that this has been one of those times when it pays to just settle in and not complain while it  keeps getting better and better.  

We spent the early evening having a fiesta with friends from Teotitlan del Valle in our front courtyard. One by one Kathy is getting acquainted with friends here who are so dear to me. They've all welcomed her warmly and I think she's beginning to understand my love for this special place. 

Time to come back! Yeh!

                                                        

                                                                                            My frosty yard last week

Yes,  I've been gone a long time and I really miss being here. I''ve been super busy this year and am eagerly awaiting the arrival of family who will be here with me for the Christmas holiday. That is, of course, weather permitting. At this moment highway One is closed because of flooding in several places. 128 was closed this morning but appears to be open now.  I hope they'll have cozy  trips to Fort Bragg in warm cars and then for sure, we'll have a warm and cozy time when we're all together. Can't wait.

One of the things that caused me to slow down and then abandon my blog has been the wimpyness of my little eleven inch Mac Air because of not having enough room to put my pictures into it directly without using a secondary stage external drive. I know that's a poor excuse, but call me lazy, or too busy. It definitely was a factor. I have now treated myself to a thirteenn inch Mac Air with much meatier innards. I'm writing now on this shiny new model and hope it will help me get a new grip on sticking with it. We'll see. I'll return to this post tomorrow morning if not earlier and we'll go from there. Happy holidays dear friends.

Next day:   I've just finished listening to a marvelous interview with Isabel Allende on City Arts and Lectures from KQED. I've heard her speak many times but this was the best yet. A classic exploration of her habits, inclinations, candor and honesty. I loved it and called Kathy to see if she could find it. Actually, I'm sure it can be streamed from the KQED or KZYX archives. Definitely worth the effort to find it.

I'm soon on my way to do last minute errands in Fort Bragg and Mendocino. We have frost forcast for the next two days so I'm hoping to share a pic from last week's amazing frost. Hasta luego.

About to check out of Hotel Las Mariposas

Eight year old Miguel setting up a new business

With considerable sadness I am being picked up by a taxi at 6:00 am tomorrow morning, I'm leaving with several reservations. One is because I've been uncomfortably sick for the last three days. Dolor en cabeza, estomacha and garganta. Much coughing and total loss of energy. The other reason for my ambivalence is related to the first. I don't want to pass this on to anyone greeting me in SFO. I'll sit in back, Steve.

 This hotel is so much like that famous place in India where a disparate group of Brits contracted to move to. Everyone knows each other or soon comes know each other for better or for worse. Here I'd say it's ninety something percent for the better.   Some really solid friendships begin her and blossom over the years. And of course, some of us develop lasting friendships with those in nearby villages.

 I received a surprise visit from Jacobo Mendoza last week. He said he'd like to take me anywhere I'd like to go in the next few days before my planned departure. I was thrilled and chose San Bartolo because I like the lovely museum there for indigenous people to exhibit their arts and crafts. It just happened that Jacobo had a new piece in that show and had received a prize for it. — So I chose well. I will have a ton of pictures to share with you from that show. But they're not off the camera yet and I'm only  two thirds finished with my packing.

You never know when the next sweet thing is going to happen here. About an hour ago I heard a gentle knock on the door of my  room. I opened it up to face eight year old Miguel. He held out his hand and told me that their contents were a gift for me — to wish me a happy voyage home and bring me good luck. This child is amazing. Several weeks ago the "other Jackie, " who is an artist, bought him some makings for  "aretes" (earrings) and he was soon off and running. They have worked together before an he's always full of surprises. I bought three pairs of his first batch.

So much more to tell you. Like the demonstration of kindness by some people in a local bank where I had occasion to attempt making a deposit for my friend Gabriel in Guadalajara. I promise I'll get back to you on that and many more things when I catch my breath.

Please know that I am definitely getting better and will be battering you with words and pictures before you know it. Until then, my dears, I'm about to fly north. I'm sorry if this reads like it hasn't been proofed. It hasn't.

I'm catching the bird watching disease?

A Cacique just outside the window of Rancho Primavera,

 eating away at a hole  the local birds have punctured in a ripe papaya. I'm only three feet away from him. What a thrill!

I've always loved observing the beauty of the birds that catch my eye. I've also sometimes felt that the bird watchers I encountered were just a little over the edge.  If you know what I mean. Skip wrote a few engaging stories about birders he had known —That was then.

Since I met Art I began to take more notice of both birders and birds and their endlessly confusing names. The birds, that is. Regarding birders — I've come to feel that they are among the smartest people I've ever met. They're special in a way I find it hard to describe. So I won't even try. But, bit by bit, over the last two years I find myself more and more glued to the view of my feeders on the back porch and to the birds that fly over my car as I'm driving along, and to the movements in the high trees that surround my bedroom. I am in Oaxaca now and my bedroom has a wonderful courtyard, trees, bushes and an awesome wall of volcanic rock with ferns growing out of it and water trickling down from the top. Could you imagine a more heavenly spot for some birds, big and tiny, to hang out? Especially in the early morning and at dusk around 6:30.

I have fallen in love with the calling of a particular bird that shows up each evening and sometimes in the morning around 7:30. He is so elusive, diving between the palm fronds and over to a neighboring yard that, until the last few days I've not been able to get more than a "just before dark" profile sight of him. Our friend Fernando, an active birder, finally began narrowing him down to the Thrush family. If we go by the books, he could be a Rufous collared (my choice) Thrush or a Rufous backed Thrush. A local bird banding expert at the Botanical Gardens told  Jim, another birder friend from the hotel, that he is probably a Rufous Backed Thrush. I thought he had told me that he might be a kind of Robin, American or Mexican but he tells me that is not what he said.The bird has a glorious range of calls from single level, long plaintiff pleas to much more lyrical trills and acrobatic sounds. I almost got a photo of him last night just before dark, but when I looked at what I had, it was not anything like proof of being.

So I guess the question is, am I becoming a hopeless enthusiast of what I used to think was "a little out there" or not?

Preparing for last week of class

Front courtyard fountain festooned for Valentines Day by the "other Jackie"

A fun bunch

Humboldt group — Latest arrivals from Arcata and Eureka

enjoying the space just outside my room in the back courtyard

Well, in my studies we're beginning to hit all the old difficulties that pop up seemingly every year.  How to spell numbers, how to say numbers and letters of the alphabet. Yesterday we worked on ser and estar for this year and today we went over names of clothes and the worst stopper always — por and para. That seems to be the one everybody has the most  trouble with. Starting tomorrow and all of next week we'll be working on Subjunctive. I'm not good enough or energetic enough to even go there in this discussion. But I have wanted to begin getting into it for some time so I'm reasonably excited and nervous about finally doing it. More whenever it becomes "old hat."

I went to El Sol & La Luna again last night and had a delicious salad with a little empanada and a small glass of vino tinto. Finished with a nut and chocolate crepe that was from heaven. At about 9:00 beautiful young people began streaming in and filling all the chairs in this tiny five table room. Dave, a friend from years past was there with another man. Soft piano jazz was playing when I entered.

I love everything about what they have done to outfit this diamond in the rough. The windows are all part of a thought but each is somehow different. The lighting is well thought out with three drop lights over the small bar. A lovely understated chandelier hanging centrally and several wall sconces finish the treatment with all appearing to be subject to dimming. A generous bowl of flowers hides the only view of a computer below the bar and a partially "distressed" combination of off white and green treats the wooden walls with various other greens on the harder surfaces. Tranquil yet engaging. Just right for me.  This charming destination is only two blocks from Hotel Las Mariposas, our little paradise in Oaxaca. I'll be back tonight with friends for another salad.