Fun, Fun, Fun

After the WARP conference was over we went to Teotitlan del Valle for three days and had a great time. Jose and Bob were our hosts and Jose our guide to pueblas in the surrounding area as well as tripping around the village itself. While there we went to San Bartolo to see the Bara Negro (black) ceramic as well as the wonderful popular arts museum located there. Our friend Jacobo Mendosa has a lovely piece in that exhibition. In the village we visited the studios of Roman Guitierez, Fidel Cruz and Jacobo Mendoza. All of them are busy with amazing work.

                                                   Jose showing off his new green shoes

Fidel Cruz's grandson   

 giving us a lecture about the natural dye materials

Bob and Jose's terrace

                                   
                                                                    Elaine and Lolli 
                                             having their first lunch in Teotitlan del Valle

We at lunch at the crossing in San Martin. Unbelievable dishes, some of which are Bob's favorites  with stuffed Publano peppers that tasted heavenly in a white sauce of chile and pomegranate seeds.Then we moved on to the inner part of San Martin and our favorite alebrije studio.

Elaine with a big alebrije piece

Alebrije studio at San Martin

At WARP Conference in Oaxaca

Several days ago I completed an amazing tour to some remote areas in the state of  Veracruz. We spent one day in the city of Veracruz and then departed for visits to remote sites where exceptional weavers and embroiderers live. I don't have the names down right yet so I'll continue this post a little later.

We're in Oaxaca now at the WEAVE A REAL PEACE CONFERENCE  being held at the San Pablo Foundation and the Oaxaca Textile Museum. I am sorry to reveal that I experienced a sudden failing along with extreme pain of my right knee on Friday morning while crossing Calle Hildago to go to the San Pablo. Because it was a Friday and I was feeling worse by the hour, I agreed to go to a wonderful little hospital near my usual hotel in Oaxaca. Sue, the little hospital on Reforma that you went to came through again. A lovely young doctor did a fine job of looking into what was wrong with my knee. There is inflamation between two parts I won't venture to identify and he decided not to x-ray it because of my pacer and defibrillator. He deemed it not to be an emergency, just very painful but nothing broken. His orders were to stay off of it for at least six days and take anti-inflammatory pills and gel for the pain. I'm feeling ever so much better now but I'm being watched like a hawk and ordered to do practically nothing by my buddies. So, today they are all out on the streets of Oaxaca exploring the tiendas and museums and going to Los Danzantes for lunch. I was, of course, scheduled to be on that tour also, but I'm cooling my heels and deciding to deal with Google and the eccentricities of managing to get back into my blog. Obviously I've gained entry, but only after changing my password one more time.

This afternoon I'll try to transfer a few of the pictures I have from the Veracruz trip so I can share them with you. Hasta la tarde for now. Hugs to all and —Do come back later, OK?

Lolli on first afternoon in Veracruz

Weaving deonstration first night

Our guests first night

Wonderful dancers and musicians

Amazon fish luncheon after island visit

It never hurts to try!

I have spent the last hour trying to get access into my own blog. Sound familiar? Apologies to those who have been urging me to report in with news from Oaxaca. It's not always easy when you are dealing with machines that don't talk.

All that aside, Oaxaca is beautiful. Not 100% peaceful from time to time, but if you stay in the right places (and according to some, don't wear golden earrings)  you can have a very pleasant time.

I went to Los Danzantes for comida on Wednesday with my friends Carol and Mike. Couldn't have been more beautiful.  This has to be one of the most creative spots to eat in the world. Presentation is always a thrill and taste combinations very often a surprise. We started with a molded quinoa salad with micro sized cucumber added along with avocado and other goodies, all held together by a cucumber gel.

The entre was a kind of wrapped fish and octopus mixture with a scored pastry covering. Quite tasty and delicious as well as great to look at.

Dessert was a mango gelato sitting on a bed of goat cheese with scattered pieces of mango and strawberry chunks all topped by some kind of stiff and sweet goodie. It was delicious. Especially the combo of the mango and goat cheese.

So there you are, dear friends.  Who knows if they'll let me into this oh so private space again, but I promise you that I'll try. And you do know I'm a stubborn Taurus.

I've Been Missing — Big Problems With Blog

I've just returned from a marvelous trip to Oaxaca, Mexico where I attended the 10th Annual Shibori Symposium organized by Yoshiko Wada and her very hard-working crew. It was a sublime conference which included numerous tours  to outlying places of interest. These included ruins and small villages that often tend to specialize in one or two crafts. There were one day trips as well as  multi-day trips. There were one day workshops and longer workshops. 

I took a three day workshop with Michel Garcia. This was a grand experience. Since Michel has been criss-crossing the globe and sharing his vast knowledge of natural dyeing and mordanting. The practices used by local dyers and weavers have become infinitely more ecologically and environmentally advanced. He has helped local dyers everywhere to concentrate on using the materials that are available nearest where they live so that supplies of plants, minerals and other materials are not  over exploited. He has shared his research leading to extraordinary new practices in the use of mordents to the point that weavers in Teotitlan del Valle have transformed the efficiency of their practices. 

We watched Jacabo Mendoza give a thrilling natural dyeing demonstration for almost two hours. His  use of local plants, leaves, and other materials produced unbelievable color changes  in seconds. Several days later I made a last trip to the lovely pueblo of Teotitlan del Valle at which time six of us visited Jacabo's studio and revisited many of the practices he used several days before in his   demonstration. His wife, Maria Louisa participated as she had earlier also along with their two children. 

After a charming lunch  visit to a local restaurant, we moved  up the hill to the marvelous  silk growing and producing compound. They also demonstrated everything from the silk worms and their development to the hand spinning and reeling of the silk thread they use to make an impressive number of woven and knitted wearable articles.  

We visited the so-called largest (in width) tree in the world at Thule, another small village, on our way back to the city of Oaxaca. This was just one of the marvelous days spent in the cultural Mecca of Oaxaca. Other days featured lectures and panel discussions that ranged from descriptions of Shibori techniques to personal histories of  previous and currently practicing artists. Of course, lovely lunches, visits to museums and oh, yes, shopping filled much of the fast evaporating time available. 

Nights featured visits to all our favorite restaurants as well as musical events. One evening I attended a gorgeous concert by the Oaxaca Symphony in the beautiful operal house for which I have shown photos in earlier posts. This particular musical night was nothing short of blissful. An encore for a brilliant performance of a Beethoven symphony was the repetition of a complete movement by the conductor and his players. What a gift! The other thing that enhances my memories of such experiences is the fact that Oaxaca parents bring their children, young and old to such events. What    a joy it is to see children becoming absorbed in melody and rhythm and often moving their bodies in ways that show their total involvement. Little ones are usually asleep by the end of the performances and they are gently awakened and carried out or urged to movement which always seems to happen pretty smoothly. I adore seeing children sharing their parents' love of music and performance at such an early age.

Time Flying

At the concert venue

Kathy and I have only two days of class left. How time whizzes  bye.   So many events I haven't had time to report. We've both had a lot of homework almost every night. That definitely cuts the blog posting down. 

Last Thursday evening we attended a lovely concert at the Biblioteca Andres Henestrosa. This is a charming old building outfitted with a retractable roof which was left open for this  violin and piano chamber concert. The violinist, Socrates Juarez and the pianist, Ursula Topete both needed a few minutes to warm up with the ceiling wide open. After only moments the music was fantastic. They played pieces by Bach, Beethoven, DE P. Sarasote and Ravel. Two young artists, well  prepared, vigorous and accomplished. I felt badly for them when a huge airplane flew just over us on the way to the airport. But it didn't seem to phase them, pros that they are.

Jackie eating well at Marco Polo

We've had several really tasty fish dinners at Marco Polo Restaurant just across the street from Llano Park which is only up the street from us. Kathy has had fish tacos there but has now switched to one of our favorites, the filet meneure.(sp) Flavor jumps out at you from the surface of the outside oven baked fish with each bite. All of the seating for this restaurant is in a delightful open air garden filled with plants and trees. You could happily sit there all day. So it's not unusual to prolong the meal with a cup of coffee or a flan or both. Kath and I decided to try a cold coffee advertised on a standing intro card placed on our table. They took a long time to arrive and when they did, they sported a white lid tightly placed on each one. We opened them and tried to spoon out a little of the whipped cream at the top. The spoons felt like they were hitting rocks. Both drinks were frozen solid. We waited and waited and....... still frozen. We finally decided to take them home (via a stop at the bank). We made it.

Today after class we joined Carol and Mike for a trip to Etla and San Augustine. We started with the Etla market which is built on a hillside. Charming and bustling with energy. We ate lunch at one of the many eateries and then walked through and bought gift aprons for several people. Back to the van and north a bit to a glass blowing studio/factory. We only bought small, beautifuly colored glasses because we really don't have any more space or weight allotment  in our baggage. They had beautiful pitchers that we couldn't possible fit anywhere..... so no purchase. Back to the van and up the mountain to San Augustine where "Casa," the beautiful old textile factory, remodeled to be an art center with gorgeous reflective pools and huge exhibition spaces.  A fascinating photography exhibit in the adjoining church space, but no exhibits in the main galleries at the moment. Francisco Toleda is responsible for this amazing art center remodel. It is free to the public and a gift to the community like many other similar project he is the driving force behind.

We're back in our room working on the next to last possible "Tarea" (homework) and a late night walk around the corner for a mini mini meal or drink. Oh yes, life is tough in Oaxaca.

Nothing Like a Weekend in Teotitlan del Valle

The sweetest dog I've ever met

A laugh a minute

This dog loves yarn

This last weekend was almost indescribable. Five of us arrived by bus from Oaxaca (City) to the junction of the highway and the road leading up and through The hillside town of Teotitlan del Valle. We were picked up at that crossing by our friend Jacabo Vasquez. We drove directly through the uphill way to Jacabo's home where we were greeted by his wife Mireya and their three children. We were there to celebrate our friendship with this lovely family as well as the birthdays of two members of the group including Mireya. It also just happened to be Valentines Day. All in all, many excuses to have a roaring good time.

Any color will do

This gorgeous twelve year old studies and speaks English like a pro

Teotitlan del Valle is a town where just about every single person is a weaver. They are known for their tapestries, rugs and other loom woven fabrics. The degree of quality in the weaving is not to be believed. Many in this pueblo use Zapotec symbols and keep the art and traditions of that group of people alive and well. More than ever before the weavers are also doing natural dyeing with local and otherwise procured plant material. Each year the skills seem improved and their demonstrations of natural dyeing are absolutely captivating. Our hosts at the Vasquez compound use all natural dyes. Their products are sold in the town as well as in the city of Oaxaca and many of the nearby pueblos especially at their weekly markets.

Jacobo and the cake

Our happy visit to the market

This was Kathy's first journey to  this wonderful pueblo and she took to it like a fish to water. We drank and ate and visited all the rest of the afternoon in the company of our Zapotec hosts to the point of almost bursting. Traditional soup was served when we entered the dining room and it was followed by a chicken mole that was to die for. Tortillas with any number of meats and sauces soon followed and a super moist and delicious birthday cake with Carol's name on it topped it all off with toasts every few minutes that put everyone in a mighty fine mood.

Mireya at the loom

Our little group is following the educational progress of the family's older son who is in his second year at University in Oaxaca. All three of their children are a delight to be with as is their totally captivating dog. I'm posting a number of scenes from Saturday and Sunday's activities with this loving family.

Mireya stirring delicious chocolate with the geletin dish in view

After an overnight at a nearby Air B&B, where we had a welcoming cup of coffee before being picked up by Mireya and taken to the Teotitlan Market. This indoor/outdoor market is a warm and wonderful place to be on a Sunday morning. Flowers abound, meats of all kinds are being displayed and carved, vegetables and fruits are everywhere and baked goods make the whole place a paradise of  heavenly aromas. Of course  there are textiles of all kinds, baskets, carved wooden objects and a host of other handmade items there, ready for purchase.

Mireya winding bobbins

Trying on a traditional Zapotec Apron

Our happy group

After that warm and friendly experience at the market, we convened at the Vasquez home where we were seated again in the dining room and treated to the most delicious chocolate along with breads just bought at the market and followed by portions of the mole with chicken and rice from the previous day. Then came a gelatin dish I'd like to attempt to copy. It contained  nuts, vanilla gelatin, grated carrots and various seasonings. I might try making it with almond milk. Yummy.

Carol and Mireya in celebratory hats

Our visit culminated with an invitation into the family's show room where all their gorgeous rugs, tapestries, bags, pillow covers and such are arranged in neat stacks. We tore into them and had a hard time resisting each and every item. Needless to say I did a bit of buying as did Kathy and the rest of the group. We walked away a bunch of very happy campers. Jacobo and Mireya drove us back to Oaxaca and we didn't need to eat a thing until the next day. Truly a weekend to remember.

The beautiful youngest and oldest members of the family

Visit With Friends From Home

Long protest peacefully blocking Calle Benito Juarez 

Kathy and I crossed the street right through this long line of marchers

This is Friday and it's market day in Llano Park. Coemella and John Wilson from Fort Bragg joined us for lunch after our classes and then we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the huge Friday market just down the street from our hotel. We bought blouses and earrings and scarves plus some flowers to give our lovely hotel owner for her birthday.

My jump into the world of the subjunctive is a bit like a roller coaster. I'm finally learning just how different English and Spanish are from each other. I receive marvelously well thought out rules and regs and overviews of this mysterious mood and suddenly feel as if I'm "getting it" and then I retire to my room to do my tarea (homework) and quickly come to the conclusion that I don't have a clue. Today I finally got up the courage to ask my teacher if she thought I was really ready for this. —Such a patient lady. She answered yes immediately and cautioned me not to worry. Poco, poco says she with a warm and encouraging twinkle in her eye. So then I remove my latest exercise papers from my day pack, totally convinced that I've done it all wrong. Only to find out that it is all right. I really couldn't quite believe it, because, in my room the night before I felt like I was only guessing the answers at best. But each day I am in wonder over the nuances and subtleties of this language mood I'm trying to get a handle on.  One minute, proud and excited, the next, horrified that I'm not doing anything right. It's like being in kindergarten again. I'll let you know if there are any breakthroughs worthy of revealing.

The days here are passing quickly and there is so much to show Kathy. We haven't been to Mitla or Monte Alban yet. But tomorrow we will leave on the avocado colored bus that will take us, (Carol, Francine, Mike, Kathy and me) to the middle of Teotitlan del Valle, right next to the church. All other busses leave one at the foot of the hill below the town. Then you must catch the little "took tooks" that only carry one or two people at a time. We're going to stay overnight, which will be such fun. We'll try to take a good number of photos while there. Now that we've completed a whole week of classes I am beginning to think of all the great villages as well as spots right in the city that we have yet to see. Kath is much better than I about whipping out her phone for a good picture. So many of them that you see in my blog this year will be thanks to her.

Toasting at Las Mariposas with our friends from Teotitlan del Valle

I'm including some of the recent local protest scenes today. Protests are not unusual in this city and its surroundings, so they'll be included here and there. I know there have been some shocking events reported in the news regarding other areas of this state, but I don't know enough about them to comment. Where we are life goes on as before and it's a wonderful place to be.